the fruit is golden, ripe and spicy – yellow plum, ripe grapefruit and Seville orange. But there is also a strong fumy herbal character of Riesling from a top site spontaneously fermented. Savoury/mineral spice counterbalanced by intense lemon fruit, more citrus than the Hubacker on the palate but equally powerful and concentrated. So intense it feels as if it needs a little water to reveal its full aroma, the way some single malts do, but it just needs time (please don’t add water). Extreme wine of such intensity it is almost painful to taste now, though it could also be to do with a build up of acidity during the tasting. Wait.