Gorgeously smoky and spiced, lightly reductive nose, marked by those wild herbs and fumes of spontaneous ferment and ripe pear and smoky stone fruit. The overall effect is more savoury than fruity. So much spice. This is both richer at the moment and more acidic than the preceding GGs and I find it seems less well balanced and extremely difficult to assess. Of course it is intense and persistent but the acidity seems more pointed and less well integrated at the moment. I went back to this wine and compared it with the 2017 and could see better where it might be heading, and on second tasting that saltiness had become more obvious, as well as a chalky texture. This really needs time to both come together, gain some breadth on the palate and to open out. Keller explains that of all their vineyards, this one has the highest level of active lime and takes the longest for the components to integrate.