The most noticeably reductive/smoky of the wines so far, or is it that fumy character of wild ferment? Julia Keller says it is because of the use of the basket press (100% in this wine). This has a wild minerality, an adventurous spirit, an untamed quality. All those qualities reflected on the palate, extreme wild smokiness and a herbal fumy richness. Highly distinctive and may not appeal to those who want more primary citrus in their Riesling. So smoky and mineral like something that comes from deep underground. Unbelievable intensity, freshness and length. This is stunning but needs time. If I had not had to taste another wine soon after, the taste would have stayed in my mouth for ages. The winemaking choices are showing in youth but it will be the site that is revealed with time in bottle.