Even at the risk of blunting the proverbial razor blade by employing the expression for a second time, there’s no better way of describing Klaus Peter Keller’s use of the pruning shears in the cool and wet autumn of 2013 to drastically reduce yields for the benefit of extract. In a mysterious way this has led to a composition of floral aromas and a ripe yellow fruit fragrance which can only be described as magical. Lean, taut and fresh the wine shows so much vibrancy on the palate that it is hard to see how in this vintage any other of the estate’s Grosse Gewächse could rival the Hubacker in terms of excitement and energy. But this one really needs to be given time to find its equilibrium.